Chilkoot Trail ~ Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park

Who knew that the discovery of gold on Rabbit Creek (later named Bonanza) in the Yukon on August 16, 1896 would erupt a manic fury almost an entire year later… enticing tens of thousands of people to escape the drudges of a depression and migrate north in hopes of striking it rich? When sixty-eight rich men and women stepped off a steamboat in Seattle in July 1897 with two tons of gold the stampede officially began and the 33-mile Chilkoot Trail transformed into a series of tent towns along the way, starting in Dyea, just outside of the town of Skagway.

“Before the gold rush, Dyea was a Tlingit settlement. The Chilkoot Trail was a vital trade route between Coastal and Interior indigenous groups. The Tlingit carried fish and seal oils, preserved salmon, and plant materials over the trail to trade for the riches of the interior: copper, moose and caribou meats and hides, as well as furs. The Tlingit controlled access to the Chilkoot Trail. But when the gold rush began, they could not hold back the great tide of people. For awhile, the Tlingit continued a lucrative packing trade but that too disappeared with the coming of the trams and railway. The Tlingit people continue to live in the area and are working to revitalize their traditional culture. The Tagish have long used the land around Lindeman and Bennett Lakes for hunting, trapping and berry picking.” (Excerpt from A Hiker’s Guide to the Chilkoot Trail)

And here we are today, 113 years later, able to retrace the steps through the astoundingly beautiful coastal forest, climbing above treeline into the alpine tundra and descending into the subalpine boreal forest in British Columbia… relishing beauty, history and adventure along the way.

The necessary gear for a week-long summer expedition of four 16-year old girls, a 21-year old camp counselor and a 32-year old guide differs dramatically from the ton of supplies and gear that was required to cross the summit into Canadian territory to sustain stampeders for the additional 550 mile journey to the Yukon gold fields. It started out pretty messy, but somehow…

… we managed to pack it up neatly in our backpacks and load the ferry for the
6 hour ride up the Lynn Canal to the historic community of Skagway.

After an entertaining shuttle ride with Ruth of Dyea Dave’s Shuttle Service, including a drive-by to see her carrots growing in a claw foot bath tub in her yard, we began our backpacking journey in Dyea, at one time one of the largest towns in Alaska with a transient population of 8,000 to 10,000 people. Like so many of the “towns” along the trail, Dyea was dead by 1899, largely due to the completion of the White Pass and Yukon Route railroad.

Our first day of hiking led us 7.5 miles to Canyon City, at the mouth of the Taiya River canyon.

In its hey-day the settlement had electric lights and boasted various businesses including barber shops, restaurants, hotels, outfitting stores, taverns, a real estate office, a doctor’s office and a post office.

The Chilkoot Trail is impressive with its varieties of bridges and trail improvements,
including this suspension bridge pictured above.

About half way through our 5 mile hike to Sheep Camp on our second day we passed through Pleasant Camp, “one of the first places with level ground north of Canyon City”. There are many cooking shelters, warming shelters and food caches along the trail, and as we peered into the hut at Pleasant Camp we were surprised to see some old school looking backpacks.

Beautiful Alaskan wildflowers were scattered along the route. We continued on to Sheep Camp, our last campsite on the U.S. side of the trail before the summit into Canadian territory.

“At its peak Sheep Camp boasted 16 hotels, 14 restaurants, 13 supply houses, 5 doctors and drug merchants, 3 saloons, 2 dance halls, 2 laundries, a hospital, bath house, lumber yard and post office. They served the 6,000 to 8,000 transient residents.” (Excerpt from A Hiker’s Guide to the Chilkoot Trail)

It was fascinating and almost unfathomable looking around Sheep Camp, crowded with 50 or so campers, imagining the scene over 100 years ago. And those old school backpacks mentioned earlier… well, come to find out they belonged to some actors and actresses reliving the epic adventures of the early stampeders being documented by a French-Canadian film crew.

We left Sheep Camp by 6:30am on ‘Summit Day’ and headed out on our 8 mile journey through snow and rock, stepping our way along with tough soled hiking boots.

Our boots are a far cry from the shoes worn by travelers long ago. Various artifacts and supplies are scattered along the climb, such as this weathered leather shoe.

We chose the less safe but warmer season to climb the 45 degree summit
and decided one trip was enough for us!

The circled portion is the ‘Golden Stairs’ we traveled, a very different terrain than
the winter of 1897-1898, heavy with snow fall.

An infamous icon photo of the Klondike Gold Rush.

I can now understand how a snow-stair ascent would have been safer and easier. How fun it would have been to slide back down on the snow!

A little exaggerated by the angle, but this is kind of what it feels like
when you’re scrambling up the Golden Stairs.

We were extremely fortunate to experience 5 days of glorious sunshine weather
on the Chilkoot Trail, including a splendidly beautiful summit pass.

Whoo-hoo! Hello Canada!

This amazingly astounding panoramic view greeted us as we began our trek through the snow-covered avalanche zone. Wow, for a lack of a better word.

I don’t even know what to say. I just feel so fortunate and grateful.

Sweet flowin’ water hole.

Eventually we hiked back into the trees and camped at Happy Camp for the evening. Believe me, you are truly happy when you finally reach Happy Camp, especially after 10 hours of hiking!

The following day we hiked to Lindeman City and camped for the night. My co-leader took a narly tumble during a stream crossing and banged up her knees pretty bad, but toughed it out to Lindeman where she was able to catch a ride with a Canadian ranger on a skiff the next morning. Meanwhile, I hiked the last 7 miles of the trail with the girls.

Near the end of the trail there’s a long stretch of sand walking…

Then a short decent down to Lake Bennett.

The renovated St. Andrew’s Presbyterian Church in Bennett is the last gold rush-era
building still standing on the trail.

In Bennett we boarded the White Pass and Yukon Route train for a luxurious 2.5 hour ride back to Skagway. They were even kind enough to put all of us hikers in one train car, so as not to expose the other passengers to our lovely odors.

Construction on this narrow gauge railroad began in late May of 1898, utilizing the
strength and work of over 30,000 individuals until the $10 million dollar project
was completed all the way to Carcross in late July of 1900.

It was a spectacularly beautiful train ride and an ideal way to wrap up an
incredible journey through magnificent landscapes and mind-boggling history.

“One hundred thousand men and women headed north, but only 30,000 or 40,000 actually reached the gold fields of the Klondike. Four thousand or so prospectors found the gold but only a few hundred became rich.” (Excerpt from All Aboard! White Pass & Yukon Route Onboard Magazine)

And then the frenzy was over.
But the yonderlust surely continues for some of us out there.
Gold just shape shifts into whatever it is we’re really searching for.

Enjoying the ride… which reminds me of a song by one of my favorite
Texas singer/songwriters, Terri Hendrix. (www.terrihendrix.com)

Enjoy the Ride ~ Terri Hendrix

You don’t get me that’s okay, I can understand
I’m a scratch off dreamer with a lotto ticket in my hand
I’m another year older with a chip on my shoulder waiting for my hair to fall
But you hold up in the water and that’s the wonder of it all

Just getting by or just getting through doesn’t cut it for me anymore
I’m ready to enjoy the ride from deep inside
I wanna know… what I’m here for

Leave it to the drama queen to make a scene and leave
And my hand me downs and borrowed shoes – I had good intentions up my sleeves
But I over stayed my welcome, they split me in two
I shouldn’t have to be broken to fit into their point of view

Just getting by or just getting through doesn’t cut it for me anymore
I’m ready to enjoy the ride from deep inside
I wanna know… what I’m here for

I’m so used to strange I don’t know what normal is
And just when I get on my feet something underneath me gives
But I can also feel the sun beneath my skin
I’m going through the motions, yes I’m changing from within

Just getting by or just getting through doesn’t cut it for me anymore
I’m ready to enjoy the ride from deep inside
I wanna know… what I’m here for

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